DEVOA – Daisuke Nishida at Leisure Center

This article was published in the Nov/Dec edition of FOLIO.YVR. All photos courtesy of Helen Siwak.

Daisuke Nishida is the kind of person who does not leave anything up for interpretation when talking about what inspires him. Speaking through a translator at Leisure Center Vancouver only minutes before the opening reception of his event Future Nomads – Here to Go: Prisoners of the Human Condition, he is animated and open while discussing what led him to design clothing, and venture into the world of visual art.

Nishida’s Grandfather was a tailor, he says through a translator. And his mother practiced traditional ikebana, which is the traditional Japanese art of arranging flowers into graceful and artistic formations. However, to his family’s surprise, Nishida started in the world of sport, first practicing and then instructing wrestling. After this, he became a medical instructor and finally forayed into clothing design without any formal education.

His experience instructing anatomy laid the technical foundation for his career in clothing design, specifically his studies of 16th-century Flemish anatomist Andreas Vesalius, who is known as the founder of modern anatomy, and published the Fabrica, a collection of drawings on the human form that was regarded as revolutionary at the time.

“The way he was drawing wasn’t the exact human form,” Daisuke explains, referring to photos of Vesalius’ work on an iPad. “Nobody understands why. The part that no one understands is what I am interested in. I want to be like him, making new patterns of clothing that people might not understand.” These photos show people with their muscles and flesh exposed, holding graceful yet unnatural poses, not unlike the figures on display in his exhibit.

In 2005, he started the DEVOA brand, based on a booklet of sketches and design ideas that are still used to inform design choices to this day. His clothes sit somewhere in the realm of tech wear and high fashion, and he continually pushes the boundaries of what defines the brand. A deep understanding of the human body is core to Nishida’s design philosophy, and it informs the materials and construction he uses. He traces the seams of his jacket, which follow a path that avoids being sensed by the nerve located on the forearm. His trousers are cut with an unnatural line, making the legs appear longer and slimmer.

“My experiences made me think that I couldn’t be a normal fashion designer,” Nishida says, referring to his lack of formal fashion training. “I am trying to present the structure of the human body and how to present it through my clothes.”

Nishida’s emphasis on learning by doing is apparent in his visual art, as with his fashion design. The washi paper used for the to make clothing for his miniature figures is an art form with over 1,000-years of history. His decision to use this medium is too painstaking to be considered experimental. One gets the feeling that Nishida doesn’t like doing things that are easy.

“There is a lot of failure with this,” Nishida says. “It’s critical to present the colour, and I mix four colours without knowing what the outcome will be…the unpredictability is the most beautiful part of it.”

Leaving Leisure Center, I walked past the display space at the front of the store for a second time. Alongside several racks of his brand DEVOA’s most recent collection of men’s technical wear are several glass cases holding human figures clothed in his designs and held in dreamlike positions with webs of thin chains. A staff member informs me that these figures are meant to be futuristic forms of the human body, which are slightly disproportionate to suggest the idea that the human body will evolve over time.

In this futuristic timeline, everything comes in black, including an overcoat that seems to melt into a canvas of black washi paper. The clothing for the figurines is made with this traditional Japanese art form, which proves to be one of Nishida’s many specialties. Nishida’s exhibit in Leisure Center follows stops in Berlin, Shanghai, and Kyoto, where each show is designed specifically for the city that hosts it. Leisure Center was selected due to his connection with the owners – Mason Wu and MuYun Li – and Nishida states that even though many retailers sell his clothes, he is confident that only certain retailers would understand his exhibition and want to host it.

His collection and exhibit are sure to be well received in Vancouver, where local-based designers like Arc’teryxReigning Champ, and Lululemon are known to prioritize function and fit above all else. When asked about style in Vancouver, he agrees that DEVOA has a chance to meld into the city’s tech-focused style. “People in Tokyo try too hard,” he says, grinning. “In Vancouver, people choose to wear comfortable clothes.”

Noteworthy

Here are a few interesting and noteworthy things that I have stumbled across in the last few weeks while kicking around lovely old Vancouver, BC. Although it gets dark at 4:30PM now, there are far more opportunities for layering and having absolutely nothing better to do on a Saturday then shop.

Kamuy Vintage

I heard about a vintage workwear shop that was located in a basement in Gastown, and it was a no-brainer that I would be checking it out the following day. Underneath Out and About boutique on West Cordova (a great store for design-focused gifts and trinkets), sits Kamuy Vintage. From the moment I walked in, I knew it was unlike anything else in town. Racks of well-curated finds are stuffed into their basement space, and I managed to find a vintage Japanese army jacket after only a few minutes (I didn’t pull the trigger yet though, maybe next time).

The “pop-up” says on its website that it was supposed to end July 31st, but I snuck in this visit in early November. Let’s hope they stick around.

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Wearing vintage Japanese army jacket

Garuda

I noticed a friend of mine wearing a pair of off-white (not the brand) techwear-inspired pants while I was at his house for a pizza party. While we listened to the COLORS SHOW channel on YouTube and talked about Arc’teryx, he mentioned that they were a custom order from a clothing designer friend – and this is how I discovered GARUDA.

Initially founded in Auckland, NZ, the company was moved to Panchkula, India after only a few years of operation. Now the brand runs its own private workshop to manage every step of their process from design to manufacturing and beyond.

Their collections are wide ranging, and are organized into 4 “kits” for different use in a day in the city, and many items are made to order.

Photo from https://garuda-ss.com

DEVOA

This month saw the release of the November/December edition of FOLIO.YVR, where I interviewed Daisuke Nishida of the menswear brand DEVOA from suburban Tokyo.

I could speak at length about the clothes he makes, but for me what is more interesting is the man behind the brand. Nishida started out as a wrestling/MMA athlete and then instructor, where he started to think about how the human body moved efficiently while in motion.

He then began a career as an anatomy teacher, where he became inspired by the works of Andreas Vesalius, a figure who is seen as the grandfather of modern anatomy. Vesalius created drawings that showed the muscular structure of the human body, while elongating and affecting certain features for reasons no one knows.

Now, Nishida makes trousers that make the wearer appear taller and slimmer, and designs the seams of his jacket sleeves to, I’m not even embellishing here, caress the wearer’s arm ergonomically and minimize contact with the nerve.

Nishida does all this and practices visual art too; he is currently touring the world with his collection of visual art, featuring handmade figures and clothing that depict a futuristic human race wher everyone wears black techwear.

He worked with traditional washi paper to make this art, confirming my hypothesis that anything he wants to do, he will figure out. Keep an eye on Daisuke Nishida and the DEVOA brand in the future.

DEVOA brand
Photo from https://devoa.jp/collection

Veilance releases S/S 2020

In recent news about things that I can’t begin to afford, Veilance (no longer Arc’teryx Veilance) released their Spring/Summer 2020 collection at Paris Fashion Week, which will drop in January of 2020. In the age of “hype” and limited run releases, it’s nice to see a company focus on growing excitement for a collection over an extended period of time. Veilance shows no sign of deviating from Arc’teryx’s brand values of longevity and purposeful quality, and this will likely never change as long as they are keeping it real on Vancover’s North Shore.

This collection is inspired by French photographer Vincent Fournier, with Veilance Creative Director Taka Kasuga stating:

“Vincent’s photographs, specifically his SPACE UTOPIA series, which was shot at the Mars Desert Research Station in Utah, show what is possible when limitations are shred…the pieces in this collection are designed to empower the wearer in a similar way. To offer total freedom through their ability to adapt and protect in all climates.”

Fournier’s SPACE UTOPIA project was the result of touring space centres for an entire decade, in Utah, Bangalore, and Russia among other locations. This was a product of his obsession with sci-fi novels, films and comics, and harkens back to an era that is re-entering the spotlight as we approach the 50th anniversary of the moon landing. The space race of the 1950’s onward was the ultimate test of mankind, an adventure where people were thrust into the most inhospitable environments imaginable. Fournier is trying to capture feelings of isolation and smallness, but also the excitement of exploring new frontiers and the technological constraints that made this difficult.

Mars Research Station #4, Mars Society, San Rafael Swell, Utah, 2008. (Vincent Fournier)

As a child, Fournier remembers visiting the Palais de la Découverte science museum in Paris, when the year 2000 was seemingly an eternity away. Now, we are caught somewhere awkward between an abandonment of the Moon’s exploration and Elon Musk’s ambitions on Mars. Surely I can’t be the only one wondering why we don’t go to the Moon more, and maybe someone with an education not in business marketing can explain this. However it is in this time that Veilance decided to take inspiration from interstellar ambition.

This collection is marketed as “expanding into territories new and old”, which seems like a copywriter’s way of describing, well, any new collection in fashion ever. Chirps aside, they are making a push into performance denim with the Cambre pant and jacket, developed from Japanese 3D ergonomic patterning and laminated construction.

Cambre Jacket & Pant

Although little information could be found about the idea behind this, the idea of a slim-fitting, performance-focused denim jacket its appealing as hell. It looks sleek and undeniably different, and also begs the question of whether it could be alterable to achieve a truer fit. As an example, the Blazer LT, a wind and water resistant offering looks distinctive, and is practical for Vancouver’s dark, wet winters. However it suffers from the trickiest part about menswear, this being everyone is nowhere near as symmetrical as they hope, and long arms, square shoulders and everything but a model’s fit wreaks havoc on the fit of a blazer. Perhaps if this denim can be fiddled with, it can make the high price point a bit easier to swallow.

Aside from a strong returning roster, some new luggage offerings promote airport hopping in true minimalist style, and to top it all off the “featherweight” pieces are super lightweight.

In related news, clumsy use of my hands resulted in a toonie-sized hole in my Frame LS shirt. I am recovering from this loss slowly, but not without the knowledge that I purchased it on ProDeal and should just retire it to a life as the lightest, most technically-sound pyjama shirt in existence.

The wait until these products actually releases begins…until then, it may be best to relax to some music without words and enjoy the Vancouver summer until wildfire smoke robs us of all joy.